Sort of a (probably more expensive) (less good) DIY version of the nanoleaf remote
| Setting HomeKit Scenes |
Charging |
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- The magnets fit into the slots within the upper & lower halves, 2 pairs of magnets should be reversed so the two halves have a prefered way of clasping together
- Once the circuit's on the perfboard chop off some of the excess board & use the circuit_connector (and probably some hot glue) to attach it with the top of the ESP32 facing the number 2.
- Switched from the Adafruit HUZZAH32 (which uses 7000µA in deep sleep) to the TinyPICO (which uses ~29µA in deep sleep) which should have a noticable effect on the battery life
- Started powering the IMU component from a GPIO pin after seeing that it used about 1.43mA max (well under the 12mA that it's safe to pull from a GPIO pin)
- Didn't 3D print a new case / use a new proto-board so there's a bunch of extra electrical tape, hot glue and solder
- Expose as real homekit device rather than use Homebridge-mqtt, there's an ESP32 homebridge library but it looked complicated & didn't appear to work in ardiuno mode
- Internal LEDs, I bought some planning to put them in but I couldn't be bothered with the additional power draw & complexity
Use a transistor to power on the gyro only when it's needed - didn't realise until I'd wired it up that the gryo / accelerometer chip has an always on LED + all the processing it's presumably doing. Could have it powered off during sleep then power on wake.- Wait for movement to stop before sending messages, I thought this would be a bigger deal than it seems to be, there's a CSV of readings taken while moving which could be used to train a tensorflow model to check if it's in motion.
- Use actual math instead of a tensorflow model to tell which side is up. Less fun, but probably quicker.
